Words ﹠Photo: Janis Latvels

Kota Kinabalu, often referred to simply as ‘KK’, is the capital of Western Malaysia’s state of Sabah, which occupies the NW corner of the island of Borneo. It is a fairly sleepy provincial town by Hong Kong standards, with a population of just over half a million. Although KK is usually used as a gateway to Sabah’s natural wonders and activities – jungle treks, river cruises, orangutan sanctuaries, diving trips, climbing Mount Kinabalu, it can offer a fair share of entertainment by itself. Keeping in mind that Malaysia is a predominantly Muslim country where homosexuality is illegal and can be punished by fines, imprisonment or caning and alcohol is outright banned in some of its more conservative states, KK comes across as a surprisingly relaxed and lively place.

GETTING THERE
Malaysian Airlines and AirAsia fly there direct daily, while Dragonair will get you there most days of the week. The flight only takes just over two and half hours, immigration formalities are minimal for most nationalities (except for citizens of Israel, who are not permitted to visit Malaysia) and the airport is a short drive away from the city centre. Basically, if you leave HK on a morning flight, you can be sipping mimosas by the pool-side of your KK resort before mid-day (there is no time difference). But, as it is exclusively a holiday destination, don’t expect to find too many last minute bargain deals.

SLEEP
There are plenty of choices for all budgets, from no-star backpackers’ dens at around HK$50 a night, to private 5-star villas on secluded islands just off the coast of Borneo that can be yours for a little over HK$3.5K a night.

Shangri-La’s Tanjung Aru Resort & Spa
No 20 Jalan Aru,Tanjung Aru
http://www.shangri-la.com/en/property/kotakinabalu/tanjungaruresort
This place has has almost everything anyone could desire – 2,000 sq. meter pool complete with tapered shoreline, jacuzzi beds and infinity section for adults, sunset bar, seven restaurants, an award winning spa and a private beach. Basically, no need to bother exploring anything beyond the perimeter if your only prerogative in Borneo is absorbing the warmth of tropical latitudes. For more adventurous travelers though, relentless shrieks of an army of over-fed children can quickly get irritating.

Sabah Oriental Hotel (until recently known as Beverly Hotel)
Kemajuan
http://www.facebook.com/sabahorientalhotel
Slightly worn-out, but superbly quiet (in comparison with the Shangri-La), this is a great value 4-star hotel that has all the basic facilities one requires upon return from exhausting jungle excursions and mountain climbs – hot shower, food, bar, small out-door pool and a gym. If it starts to get a bit boring once the sun goes down, the city centre is just a short cab ride away.

The Jesselton Hotel
www.corporatehotel.com
69, Gaya Street
http://www.jesseltonhotel-kotakinabalu.com
A timeless piece of colonial beauty, established in 1954. The hotel is located in the heart of KK’s business and commercial district. The hotel provides exquisite personalized service, in the style of a colonial house with welcoming public areas, a cozy lounge, an elegant Italian restaurant, 32 guestrooms including one luxurious suite and an authentic London cab. Another great value place for the money spent, at just over HK$500 per night.

EAT
Night Market
Jin Tun Stephens, open late afternoon till 11pm
This lively spot is right in the middle of city, opposite Le Meridien. If you have no problems buying food from Mong Kok’s street hawkers, you won’t have any here either. There are rows of vendors that offer everything from grilled seafood to brightly colored Malay deserts. Lots of vegetarian options too, if required. Cheap, loud and cheerful. Not to be missed!

Kohinoor
Lot 4, Waterfront Esplanade
This Indian restaurant came recommended by a few different sources and, it did not disappoint. Easily the best establishment among its waterfront neighbors offering possibly the tastiest Indian food in town. Their authentic tandoori oven produces some heavenly garlic naan and plenty of other mouthwatering treats.

Tanjung Aru Seafood Restaurant
Tanjug Aru
This eatery is on the beach famed for some great sunset-watching, so the best thing to do is arrive in time for an early dinner to combine both – delicious local seafood and, well… the sunset. Dinner here will cost you slightly more than at the Night Market and you will notice that clientele is more ‘expaty’ and touristy than at most local seafood places.

SEE
Unless you have anchored yourself at a specific resort or a golf course, there is not much to do in the city during the day. Staying in your hotel room for too long won’t be much fun either – there are only a couple of English TV channels to chose from and they are heavily edited, with all the naughty words bleeped out and scenes with any more flesh than a bare shoulder cut out completely.
It is advisable to do some research before embarking on your Borneo adventure to have a clearer picture what it is that you would most prefer to see during your holiday. Many activities require advanced booking, such as climbing Mt. Kinabalu. Only a limited number of permits are granted each day and they can get snapped up weeks ahead, especially during high season.
There are plenty of local tour operators that will be happy to attend to your wish-list. One that deserves a special mention is to be found at www.discoverborneo.com. This particular agency offers impeccable service; they will promptly answer all your enquiries and book all you trips, transfers and permits. Plus, they have a well laid out, user-friendly website that you can browse in search of inspirational ideas – their tailored packages offer anything from short day-trips to 11-day jungle adventures or motorbike-trips around the whole state.
Amongst the most popular things to in Sabah, apart from Mt. Kinabalu are scuba-diving, visiting orangutan and proboscis monkey sanctuaries in Sepilok (around 40min flight from KK) and some local ‘island hopping.’ The latter one is the easiest to organize – all you need to do is turn up in the morning at the Jesselton Point Ferry Terminal and book yourself onto the next available boat which will take you to a few tiny and beautiful islands during the course of the day, with lunch and snorkeling goggles included.

NIGHTLIFE
Relatively low Muslim concentration in KK means the booze flows quite freely, although it is not as cheap as one would expect. A bottle of local beer will cost you pretty much the same as a Long Island Iced Tea. There are clusters of bar/nightclub areas around the city – Waterfront Esplanade and Beach Street area for raunchier pubs and clubs where live cover bands rule and, the latest hotspot, KK Times Square complex which houses a few establishments where Chivas and a never-ending flow of bubbly is a norm.

Q Bar
50, Gaya Street
Yes, you guessed it – this is The gay bar of KK. Just as the name suggests, the bar is in a Q shape (for optimum eye contact, apparently). It gets busy after 11pm when the house DJ switches from loungy tracks to dancier tunes; the place has comfy corner areas for small groups of friends, the menu has a wide selection of drinks and there are drag shows every Friday, plus theme nights, accordingly to the season (during our visit beginning of January, Q-girls were lip-belting out Mariah’s Christmas tunes).

Bed
Waterfront Esplanade
Not related to Bangkok or Miami’s famous Bed establishments – this place has much less glam to project but, at some point during your KK stay, you are quite likely to end up there anyhow. It gets crowded soon after 9 and it starts to get better after each Margarita. The live band keeps alternating with the DJ till late at night, way later than you are going to remember…

White Room
KK Times Square
The place to save your best outfit for. This newly established complex houses offices during the day, so there are no noise-hating residents around at night. Equivalent to a local A-list crowd with wallets to match. Well crowded till the wee hours but then who’s going to complain with all those hot bodies fighting for dancing space. THE place to be seen, along with a couple of other establishments at Times Square – Chocolate Factory and Firefly.

Words: James Soo

The last great unexplored wilderness in Asia, Mongolia is the adventurer’s destination. With only 3 million people in a country about a quarter the size of the whole of Europe, you could travel for days without seeing another soul. And unlike the rest of Asia where traditions and customs have become Disneyfied for tourists, in Mongolia nomads still live in much the same way as they have for thousands of years. Which means it’s not for the faint-hearted. But if you’re brave, and willing to learn to speak a few words of the fiendishly difficult language, you’ll be invited into the homes of these fiercely proud, but also passionately warm people.

GETTING THERE
MIAT now flies direct between Hong Kong and Ulaan Baatur three times a week. Alternatively, you can fly Air China via Beijing, and you can also take the train from Beijing – the last section of the Trans-Mongolian railway. Don’t forget though that for much of the year, the country is comatose under metres of snow with temperatures around −30C, so summer is probably the best time to visit.

SLEEP
In Ulaan Baatur (UB to locals), your best bet is to stay in one of the numerous guesthouses that cluster around the center of town. There are a few business hotels as well, but the guesthouses are the main meeting points for travellers, where you can find out about tours or meet a few like-minded people for an independent Gobi adventure. Outside of UB, you’re pretty much reliant on either tourist ger camps (traditional felt tents), that tend to have a few more mod-cons than true gers. There will be a few hotels in the major aimag (region) capitals, but you shouldn’t expect their facilities to be much beyond what you could find at a ger camp (i.e. hot running water is definitely a luxury).

Zaya’s Hostel
www.zayahostel.com
Probably the best bet in town, Zaya’s Hostel is always full, and usually full of interesting people as well – if you’re after a bunch of 20 year old partiers though head to the Golden Gobi. Owner Zaya is a wealth of knowledge about Mongolia, and will happily chat to you for hours about it.

Golden Gobi
www.goldengobi.com
The hostel that everyone else seems to be staying at. It always gets full about half an hour after the train from Beijing arrives, so make sure you book or get there early. Very helpful, and if you can get a room in their annexe round the corner, you can avoid the crowds of dirty backpackers.

Corporate Hotel
www.corporatehotel.com
Just south of the main square, this is probably the best of the business hotels in town. While the others are usually crumbling relics of the Soviet era, this feels relatively modern and has good facilities.

EAT
Mongolian food boils down to preserved dairy (yoghurt, dried cheese, curds) and preserved meat. Vegans need not apply. However, UB has a number of decent eateries, including a few vegetarian restaurants which will be a god-send if you spend any time in the countryside where vegetables are limited to the odd green potato. Korean restaurants abound, as many Mongolians go to Korea as guest workers and many Koreans have invested in Mongolia. But you can also find traditional Mongolian food, the best of which have to be the buuz, or Mongolian dumplings. The rest is definitely an acquired taste for the hardy traveller. Few memories have been so indelibly burned into my brain as when the father of my host family dragged a goat to my ger and slaughtered it in front of me by slitting a hole in its belly, reaching in and stopping its heart. It was then stripped and boiled inside a metal bucket, from which we’d grab a piece to cut off with a flick-knife.

If you’re dying for some Western food, the supermarkets are a good choice, especially the one at the State Department Store in the centre of UB. Michele’s French Bakery is a godsend in the mornings with beautifully baked croissants, and the Grand Khaan Irish Pub seems to be a popular choice for locals and visitors alike.

SEE
UB has a couple of interesting sites. My favourites are the Choijin Lama Temple Museum, which has been relatively well-preserved amid the concrete towers. A highlight is the daily tsam-mask dance (traditional Tibetan/Mongolian Buddhist/Shamanic fusion ceremony) at 5pm. Gandan Khiid is the main functioning Buddhist monastery and temple, and is well worth a visit, although the attendants are a bit rude. A number of interesting museums are also worth a visit – best are the Zanabazar Museum of Fine Arts, which holds a superb collection of Buddhist thangkas, and the National Museum of Mongolia.

However, UB is, and should be, just the start of your Mongolian adventure. Either through your guesthouse, through one of the many independent tour organisers, or if you’re feeling very brave, by yourself, UB is the gateway to the rest of the country. Be warned that there’s really only one functioning road outside UB – between the capital and Kharkhorin. The other arterial roads tend to peter out 50km outside of the city, leaving only dirt tracks that dwindle into dusty paths through the countryside.

It probably isn’t fair to say that there are particular destinations in the country that have to be seen. Certainly the ruins of the ancient capital of Kharkhorin (Karakorum), built by Genghis and Kubilai Khan, are a poignant reminder of the demise of ancient empires. But the real joy is setting out from UB in a battered Russian jeep with no suspension and taking off into the distance. If you can, try to stay with a nomad family for at least one night. Most tours will include a cook (who is usually also the driver), which will be much appreciated after the first couple of days of Mongolian food. But it’s by living with the rhythms of this ancient people – getting up at dawn to milk the goats, helping to churn the milk down to make yoghurt and the dozen other dairy products that are a staple during the rest of the year, riding across the steppes on the small but tough Mongolian horses – that you really get to the heart of this country.

One event that is unmissable is Naadam, a huge Mongolian festival every August (the dates vary each year from district to district) where for three days people flock to their district capital for Mongolian wrestling, horse-races (the riders are all children between the ages of 6 and 9) and archery. The Naadam in UB is televised, and is held in a large stadium, so if you want a slice of real Mongolian life, head out to the provincial capitals where the Naadam is just an excuse for a huge party, where nomads who have barely seen each other in the past year can catch up, gossip and get drunk.

NIGHTLIFE
UB has plenty of bars, nightclubs and karaoke spots – the Mongolians certainly aren’t averse to drinking. So much so that once a month there is a national dry day where no establishment can sell any alcohol. While airag (fermented mare’s milk) is well known outside the country, arkhi is the killer. Distilled from milk, this vodka-type drink goes down surprisingly smoothly, but is hard to get except as homebrewed moonshine.

Mongolia is one of the world’s greatest unexplored countries, but it’s not for the faint-hearted. But if your body has the courage to live without some of your modern comforts, your soul will be richly rewarded with memories and experiences that will last a lifetime.

Words: Richard Smith
Once a backpacker destination island that has seen many a makeover, Koh Samui is the second largest island in Thailand and serves a multitude of indulgences including sun, sea, sand and sexploits. You can take a trip to Koh Pha Ngan for a full moon party, snorkel, dive, chillax, pamper and luxuriate as they are all on the menu… With so many choices it’s worth a little research. Richard James Smith samples life on the southwest coast of Koh Samui where it’s close enough to the party but also far enough away from the riff raff to feel at least middle class in the holiday snob stakes – in fact one can say that Lamai Beach is the well educated cousin of Chaweng beach.

GETTING THERE

Bangkok Air has the monopoly on direct flights to Koh Samui – something about the owner of Bangkok Air owning the airport – go figure! You can check flight details on their website www.bangkokair.com alternatively you can fly via Bangkok if you want to include a night in the city – or even take the backpacker route via VIP coach and catamaran (www.lompraya.com).

SLEEP

Le Meridien Koh Samui Resort & Spa
Tel: +66 (0) 7796 0888
146/24 Moo 4, Lamai Beach
http://www.lemeridienkohsamui.com

An interesting resort plan with private pools, shared pools and plunge pools and if you’re in need of more water the jetty at the beach reaches out far into the sea with branches off for some bean bag chill time. The sunken baths are huge also, so the Meridien certainly has ..er… watersports covered!

Le Mercure Samui Fenix Resort
Tel: +66 (0) 7742 4008
26/1-3 Moo 3, Tambol Maret, Lamai Beach
www.mercuresamuifenix.com

A well priced beach front resort hotel with great views and large pool leading to a well-kept open expanse of beach. Away from the centre of Lamai but near enough to reach by a short 10 baht songthaew ride – you can wave them down from the main road.

Banyan Tree
Tel: +66 (0) 7791 5333
99/9 Moo 4, Maret
www.banyantree.com

Luxury brand that lives up to its global reputation with a choice of secluded villas hidden among a maze of pathways accessed by golf buggy – much needed to get around this huge resort. Banyan Tree has its own private beach perfect for romancing as well as its famously luxurious spa – try ‘The Rainforest’ for the ultimate pampering!

Amari Palm Reef Koh Samui
Tel: +66 (0) 7742 2015
Chaweng Beach
www.amari.com/palmreef

For those who simply can’t bear the thought of being far away from Chaweng Beach then Amari can at least give you a luxury option! A popular hotel for Hong Kongers you can mix with the riff raff but escape to the classy end of the beach to enjoy five star service.

EAT

Rocky’s
Tel: +66 (0) 7723 3020
www.rockyresort.com/restaurant

Rocky’s features two excellent restaurants under the watchful eye of Executive Chef Azizkandar Awang: Rocky’s Bistro and award-winning Rocky’s Fine Dining on the beachfront. The international menus offer the finest mouthwatering ingredients that ensure there’s something for everyone and then some with some truly unique and educated creations.

Saffron
Tel: (020) 510 4817
Banyan Tree Samui
www.banyantree.com

We were given a fantastic selection of beautifully executed dishes from Banyan Tree’s Thai restaurant accompanied by the delicate sounds of live Thai music. Arguably the best fine dining Thai restaurant on the island – you will not be disappointed.

Beach Republic
Tel: +66 (0) 7745 8100
176/34 Moo 4, Tambon Maret

It’s the perfect chill-out spot for an afternoon of indulgence at this trendy beachfront resort. Beach Republic serves up a great international menu accompanied by cool tunes in a trendy, uniquely designed resort. Get[James Lo, 30/11/11 2:49 PM] your glam beachwear on and strike a pose.

SEE

Now for some people, partying all night and recovering by day on a pristine white beach sipping hangover cocktails isn’t enough – God, people are soooo needy! So here are a few options for THOSE sorts!

An obvious choice for an island activity is snorkeling and scuba diving – there are numerous reputable dive shops and travel agencies that can book you on a trip. Discovery Dive Centre (www.discoverydivers.com) offers excellent services with an onsite training pool and a team of highly qualified dive masters to ensure a safe and exciting experience.

Koh Samui Canopy Adventures (www.canopyadventuresthailand.com) offers you an opportunity to see the island from a gibbon’s perspective – on over 600 meters of cable for you to zip along.

Not one for adventure sports, but still want to a little more to take back with you in memory of this trip? Then what better way to show off to your friends that with some newly acquired culinary skills. SITCA (Samui Institute of Culinary Arts, South Chaweng, Tel. +66 (0) 774 1 3172) has two courses a day, as well as a separate food carving course in case you ever felt your pad thai lacked an ornamental tomato rose.

NIGHTLIFE

With nightlife in abundance sometimes it’s bet just to go where the mood takes you and bar hop along Lamai or Chaweng. There’s classy, sleazy, tacky, hippy, house, tribal, techno and a nice bit of trashy to cover all tastes.

Boy Zone
Tel: +66 (0)82 815 4843
45/16 Moo 3 Bophut South Chaweng Beach Rd, Central Chaweng (down the soi opposite the Khao San Restaurant and close to Burger King)
www.boyzonesamui.com

There are a number of gay bars to choose from in Chaweng. Boy Zone offers a bar and nightly shows if you want your boys to actually be boys that is… and Boyzone Island Tours that take you for some beach fun with the boys too inclusive of boat transfer, bbq, beer, snorkeling and (ahem) massages.

Moulin Rouge
Tel: +66 (0)82 815 4843
Chaweng Beach Rd, Central Chaweng (down the soi opposite the Khao San Restaurant and close to Burger King)

Time to stick your cock between your legs and join the ‘gals’ at Chaweng’s answer to Priscilla. Formerly known as Christie’s before its change of ownership this popular cabaret gives you ladyboys in full splendor with big song numbers and even bigger costumes. There are three shows a night that get raunchier as the evening progresses.

The Green Mango
Central Chaweng – everyone knows where to find it!
www.thegreenmangoclub.com

This legendary club has been the site of many a party – and the party definitely hasn’t stopped here. It’s a mixed crowd that takes to Chaweng’s most popular dancefloor.

Despite the convoluted plot, it’s the most spare Almodóvar has been since ‘Live Flesh’. Most of the film is set in one house, and much of it in one room. The three main characters inhabiting the house jealously guard their secrets till the end. The trouble is the ‘hero’ of this ménage à trois keeps flipping between the characters until the audience doesn’t know who to root for. I think that was the director’s intention – to come to an indeterminate conclusion – but the fuzziness of the ending left me a little unsatisfied.

Words: Richard James Smith
The UNESCO listed World Heritage Site that is Luang Prabang is everyone’s dream of fin-de-siecle Colonial Indochine. So much so that much of Marguerite Duras’ L’Amant (The Lover) was filmed here. Pastel-coloured stucco villas hide behind intoxicating jacarandas and the only sound that penetrates the languid tropical heat is the laughter of young novice monks playing a quick game of football between lessons. The temples remain intact, the palaces have been turned into hotels and, apart from their villas, all that remains of the French colonies is phenomenal coffee-shops and bakeries.

GETTING THERE
As there are no direct flights from Hong Kong to Luang Prabang, most travelers get there via Bangkok. There are a number of options from Thailand: flying, train and bus as well as by boat from Northern Thailand. You can take a speedboat (if you have a death wish), but if you have the time, take the 2 day slow boat, which allows you to appreciate the slow pace of life on the Mekong as you glide through the deep jungle, interspersed with the odd village. If you’re on a budget you can take the regular boat (www.ayaservice.com), or alternatively try some luxury on the Luang Say Mekong Cruises (www.luangsay.com) from Chiang Kong/Houe Say (the Thai/Laos river border) with an overnight stop in Pakbeng.

SLEEP
There’s no shortage of beautiful accommodation in Luang Prabang. At the top end, Maison Souvannaphoum (now run by the Banyan Tree Group) is in one of the old palaces in the centre of town. Far outside of town (15 minutes by tuk-tuk) is the Grand Hotel, again another old palace, but this one with vast commanding views of the Mekong. In town, there are a bunch of delightfully appointed hotels that straddle the line between guesthouse and boutique hotel. Luang Prabang is a very small town – everything is within walking distance – and so staying in the centre makes sense.

Hotel Villa Deux Rivieres
Kingkitsalath Road, Ba Khily
www.villadeuxrivieres.com
Well positioned on the riverside this small hotel is elegant and central. The rooms are modern with beds big enough to sleep three and quaint shuttered windows and doors to a balcony.

Luang Say Residence
4-5 Ban Phonepheny
www.luangsayresidence.com
This grand, luxurious hotel brings you all you could wish for in colonial elegance. Humungous rooms with beds whose mattresses are so deep that they seem to hug you into glorious slumber every night. Free use of hotel bicycles makes it easy to head to all the sites in town and a swimming pool gives you some respite from the sun.

Zen Namkhan Boutique Resort
www.zennamjhanresort.com
Ban Xieng Lom Village, Luang Prabang Province
This eco-conscious resort is where you go for the ultimate peace and quiet amongst the forest with an eco-friendly freshwater swimming pool, spacious accommodation and perfect positioning for visiting the Tad Sae waterfall, kayaking and Elephant trekking.

EAT
Food is definitely one of the great pleasures of being in Luang Prabang. While there are plenty of traditional, local dai pai dong style restaurants on the riverbanks, there are plenty of upscale restaurants that explore the latest in local and fusion cuisine.

Night Market
Strolling down the night market you can find numerous restaurants and also a side market street where you can find really cheap dishes including mouthwatering grilled fish stuffed with lemongrass!

Lao Lao Garden
tel: (020) 997 0106
Phousi Road
A popular and well known restaurant – with very attentive (and some rather cute) wait staff. They have a full menu of local, Thai and western delights that prompted return visits. I also took over DJ duties on our last night, well I picked the songs at least!

Dyen Sabai
tel: (020) 510 4817
Opposite bank of the Khan River (accessed by boat)
Across the river and open for lunch and dinner and serving the best local speciality of ‘sindad’ or Laos Barbecue. It’s a mix between Korean Barbecue and Chinese hotpot in style; you grill your chosen meat (the buffalo is great) in the centre and then add it to the soup broth that you fill with a large selection of veggies and add an egg to thicken the sauce if you wish. We managed to get the waiter to serenade us with some local pop songs at the end of dinner!

Arthouse Cafe
tel: (020) 510 4817
King Kitsalath Road.
Opposite bank of the Khan River (accessed by boat)
Great eaterie for breakfast and lunch – home-made breads, bagels and cakes served by an attentive staff (well trained by Debra, the American General Manager) with an array of delicious healthy smoothies. Highly recommended!

SEE
Teeming with culture and history, every art-junkie will be enraptured just wandering the streets. At the centre of Luang Prabang sits Mount Phousi (you can guess how this is pronounced) which you can climb to enjoy the breathtaking views from Wat Chom Si. A must on everyone’s ‘to do’ list in LP involves waking up at sunrise to find your spot along the street to give rice to the multitude of monks that beg each morning for their food, in keeping with Buddha’s example of humility and poverty. While walking around town is an easy pleasure, a great way to enjoy LP is by touring around on a rented bike. Tad Sae Waterfall outside of town is an easy day trip, and you can even try out elephant trekking (www.elephantvillage-laos.com).

NIGHTLIFE
Laos is a communist country and there is an 11pm curfew – all bars finish serving by then by law, so choose to start your evenings early to make the most of them! If you ask some locals you might get lucky and find a local bar that has dared to stay open a little later but choices are really limited: all late-night desperadoes head for the only place allowed to open to the wee hours… the bowling alley!

Hive
tel: (020) 537 7826
Phousi Road (next to L’Etranger Books & Tea)
www.hivebarlaos.com
Open from ‘2pm until curfew’ this cool road-side hangout on Phousi road. The inside bar has some great nooks and crannies as the name would imply and there’s an al fresco terrace to people watch from.

Utopia
Ban Aphay, Kingkitsarath Road
www.utopialuangprabang.com
‘Zen by Day, Groovy by Night’ – this hip hang out is a creatively designed bar and lounge with authentic (rather morbid but kind of cool) bomb shells as decoration and a vintage moped hanging from the ceiling. This venue attracts an eclectic social crowd with whom you can smoke shisha, play boardgames, watch some interesting documentaries and movies on the large projector screen, as well as share travel stories and sightseeing tips.

Bowling Alley
Highway 13, East of junction with Potoupakmao (just ask the taxi driver)
Well it’s not hard to work out what happens at the only late night entertainment venue in Luang Prabang. Those determined to lengthen their evening head to Bowling Alley to erm… go 10 pin bowling, oh yes, it’s LP’s answer to dragon-i! On the plus side – you can still order booze until 3 or 4am… but I suggest, if you want to get tiddly, start drinking earlier in the day!

Words: Richard Smith

The multi-faceted city of Shanghai offers the visitor a plethora of options to fill your days and nights to the brim. A city thriving with history, art, architecture, cuisine, bars and clubs that make it worth a repeat visit. There’s a thrilling buzz with glitzy and extravagant venues both modern and classic of both Asian and Western influence alongside an underbelly of a seemingly darker scene equally teeming with the cultural allure.

GETTING THERE
You really don’t deserve to go to Shanghai if you can’t find your way there! Cathay, China Eastern, Hong Kong Airlines plus numerous other airlines service Shanghai. An alternative option is to go by train – overnight sleeper is a night alternative (www.chinaticketonline.com) but I would save the travel time to make the most of the city. Don’t forget to get your China Visa sorted beforehand! (www.ctshk.com).

SLEEP
Pu Li Hotel & Spa
1 ChangDe Road, JingAn District
www.thepuli.com
If you are a sucker for a more contemporary hotel then the Pu Li offers a sleek, modern and stylish option. The lobby and bar exudes class with high ceilings and along bar reaching from and including reception in an uninterrupted length of dark wood redefining the hotel lobby concept with dramatic features that add an understated glamour to the polished finishes.

Grand Hyatt ShanghaM
Jin Mao Tower, 88 Century Avenue, Pudong New Area
www.shanghai.grand.hyatt.com
The neo-gothic castle that is the Grand Hyatt defies the polished comfort and service that concurs the reputation of this hotel chain. Take the elevator to the heady-heights of the reception on the 54th floor and onwards to the 555 rooms and suites on the floors above (up to 87th FLOOR) offering stunning birds-eye views down onto the colonial architecture lining the opposite bank of the Bund.

The Peninsula Shanghai
J32 The Bund, 32 Zhongshan, DonYi Road
www.peninsula.com/shanghai
The Peninsula offers the most luxuriously exuberant of accommodation options. I had the privilege of residing in the Deluxe Suite on the 10th floor. Ah, the perks of the job! It’s got everything – you can even take a conference call from the comfort of your bathtub, hands free, and I am told you can even screen out the sounds of your bath-time splashing!

EAT
Jishi
41 Tianping Road, Shanghai, China
Tel: 021-62829260
Small and always packed restaurant serving arguably the best Shanghainese cuisine – the seasonal crab dish – xiefen fenpi (crab with vermicelli sheets) is a winner!

Yang’s Kitchen
Wulumuqi Nanlu, Hengshan Lu,Xuhui District, Shanghai
Tel: 021-51100481
Ground floor of an old mansion the minimal décor consistently defies the fine Shanghainese cuisine. Ordering can initially be a problem as there is no English menu so with a bit of pointing at dishes or asking for recommendations from the staff you can orientate yourself your way around this. The cuisine is distinctly home-style Shanghainese with dishes in sweet dark sauces to temper your hunger for local cuisine.

Lost Heaven
38, Gaoyou Road, The French Concession
Tel: 021-64335126
17, Yan’an Dong Road (near the Bund)
Tel: 021-63300967
www.lostheaven.cn
Serving Yunnan cuisine and that of the vast Mountain Mekong region, the menu has a diverse menu of delectable dishes in a venue that pays tribute to genuine folk arts and cultural totems of this provinces, even down to the colourful staff uniform. One stand-out dish was the Lijiang-style stir-fried pork. With two outlets, one near the Bund with a glamorous rooftop bar for pre- or post dinner drinks and the other in the French Concession.

Jimmy’s Kitchen
1/F Level One, Jin Jiang Hotel (Cathay Building), 59 Mao Ming South Road
Tel: 021-64666869
Jimmy’s Kitchen has recently opened in Shanghai. But please block-out your visuals/opinions of the Hong Kong restaurant as this Jimmy’s Kitchen has been given a full modern make-over. With an extensive wine list and rich comfort food (Chicken Kiev, Prime Rib and Thick Cut Canadian Pork Chop), you certainly get your money’s worth here within the comfort of a beautifully rejuvenated brand restaurant…

SEE
Teeming with culture and history every art-junkie will be at a loss of where to start – there’re museums, modern and colonial architecture, art galleries galore, and areas selling all types of crafts. But before anything else take a stroll along The Bund and take it all in!
For museums many recommend the Shanghai Museum located a People’s Square (www.shanghaimuseum.net) exhibiting 120,000 works of ancient Chinese art from bronzes and ceramics to painting and calligraphy. More tantalized by modern/contemporary art then visit the area known as M50 (50 Moganshan Road, on the south bank of Suzhou Creek, Putuo District) cultural centre both up-and-coming and established artists have their studios.
Another great area for artworks, crafts, gifts is by meandering through the old redbrick Linong (hutongs) of Tianzifang (210, Taikang Road, DaPu Bridge, Luwan District). It can be a great way to spend an afternoon stopping at one of the many coffee shops or teahouses on your adventure in a place you’re happy to get lost in.
Alternatively get a specialist city tour of the art district with Luxury Concierge China, who specialise in familiarizing their clients with the Chinese art market (www.luxuryconciergechina.com).

NIGHTLIFE
The nightlife is Shanghai is overflowing with options from glam to down and dirty so here’s a few to consider for your big gay night out – yes they are all completely gay venues!

Eddy’s Bar
77 Huaihai Zhong Road
Tel: 021-62820521
This social watering hole owned and run by Eddy is a great place to start your evening and chat to the local and expat gay community .

Shanghai Studio
4, Lane 1950 Huaihai Zong Lu, near Xingguo Lu
Tel: 021-62831043
www.shanghai-studio.com
Located in a WWII bomb shelter that dates back to the 1930’s Shanghai Studio is a cool maze of rooms including a room with a DJ at the weekends (I seem to remember the resident DJ being rather hot!).

Club D2
The Cool Docks, 505 Zhongshan Nan Lu, near Fuxing Dong Lu
www.clubd2.com
It’s tops off time on the dance floor in the main room or flirting, chatting and debauchery on the upper floor bar. Wherever you are in this venue there’s plenty of opportunity to find a man or boy of your choice to share a cab ride home with. Techno and house music with club anthems thrown in D2 has regular international DJs.

Club Angel
1 Wulumuqi Road, by Henghsan Road
www.angelshanghai.com
Biggest gay club in Shanghai in an underground venue with chill out areas catering to all sorts of desires: Lounge – for expats and their entourage; Cage – a prison themed almost dark room; and Fantasy Club – for meeting, erm, your fantasy man I suppose! And yes it also has regular guest DJs pumping music to grind your hips to!

Words: Sam Wu

For the well-travelled queen with a fiendish penchant for Triple ‘S’ (Sun-Sea-Sand) holidays around Asia that would not break the bank, Phuket would well have been on the radar, alongside other popular destinations such as Koh Samui, Boracay, Bali etc.

Phuket is one strange duck – it has beaches galore but many are average. The nicer, more ‘pristine’ ones tend to be located nearer the north or south of the island, and even then, the water quality cannot be compared to Cebu or Boracay. Those wanting really nice beaches for snorkeling need to rent a speedboat and head to the Similan Islands (forget the twin touristy traps of “James Bond” Island and “Leonardo DiCaprio” Island crammed full with mainland gawkers).

For those who need to boogie, it is party central at Patong Beach, reminiscent of Bangkok’s famed Patpong area but the pink zone is nothing to write home about. Those in need of retail therapy can head onto Phuket Town. All other areas are only worth exploring if you stay beyond a week.

Another problem about Phuket is the size of the island itself and the need for proper public transportation. The former is not to be scoffed at; it takes two hours by car to cover from the northern most part of the island to the southern most part. Thus, either rent one or be prepared to pay ridiculously high one-way flat fees (i.e. not metered) for cabs, or slog it out by public bus (the horror!!). Truly, traveling from location to location in Phuket is not a breeze.

So, why would one still go to Phuket? In a word, romance, and Phuket offers some gorgeous romantic getaway resorts and restaurants that will keep you and your honey purring, and away far the maddening crowd.

GETTING THERE
A couple of airlines travel between Hong Kong and Phuket. AirAsia has super cheap deals, but for high-class queens, go for Cathay Pacific and Thai Airways.

SLEEP
Sala Phuket
www.salaresorts.com/phuket
A 3-year old luxury boutique resort with 79 villas, this place is simply heaven. Consistently rated as a Top 10 resort in Phuket and marketed as “a peaceful serene atmosphere where guests need not ever leave their villa to enjoy a wonderful relaxing holiday”, it is easy to see why that is true. Amazingly, each villa feels like its own private resort, complete with a decent-sized 22.5sqm private swimming pool (perfect for those nude romps at any hour of the day and night), an air-conditioned bedroom, a huge 23sqm open-air outdoor bathroom (with the bathtub and relaxing daybed that overlooks the swimming pool), twin sun loungers, and a lush, tropical garden.

Sala Phuket also has two communal pools, and Mai Khao beach is literally at your door-step. Mai Khao is north of Phuket where few tourists venture, so apart from a smattering of locals at the beach, one completely has the whole beach to oneself.

The service at Sala Phuket is impeccable, which separates it from its competitors in the vicinity. Every staff member speaks English at a level higher than most Thai people, and their bright, sincere smiles are true testimony of the legendary Thai hospitality. For our anniversary, a milk bath strewn with flowers was drawn, complete with tealight candles everywhere and more flowers in the pool. Awesome!

Paresa Resort
www.paresaresorts.com
Paresa Phuket is another luxury resort, nestled in a tropical hillside cliff above Kamala Beach. Its major selling point is its breath-taking views of the Andaman Sea from its private infinity pools, and thus instantly becoming an insanely romantic getaway in one of its 1-bedroom villas. Paresa comes with a much steeper price tag, touting itself to be “Phuket’s best-kept secret”, and Paresa Resort is a vision of pure luxury and exclusivity (and garneredit top spot in Asian travel mag DestinAsian’s 2010 Luxe List).
If price is not a factor, Paresa is definitely a must-visit. At least have a drink at its bar, or better – have a drink by its communal pool overlooking the sea, coo at its lush surroundings, marvel at the azure waters, be swathed by the cool breeze, and just… drink it all in.

EAT
For a spot of rustic romance, one can easily eat at an outdoor, beachfront restaurant found at most beaches in Phuket. Mai Khao itself has affordable seafront eateries with the standard Thai fare like green curry with chicken, crab fried rice, steamed fish, tom yam goong (spicy shrimp soup), fresh whole coconut (for its juice and sweet flesh) etc.

Sala Rooftop Dining or Sala Beach Bar
333 Moo 3 Mai Khao Beach, Thalang District
Phuket, Thailand 83110
Tel. +66 (0) 76 338 888
Many flock to dine at either Sala’s romantic rooftop restaurant or simply at their Beach Bar (which is really a restaurant too) for lip-smacking meals. I had never tasted such amazing Thai food – they serve standard Thai cuisine exceptionally well.

Everything on the menu is just simply deelish, but for a standing-ovation-type dish, order their Kanom Jin, traditional Thai noodles unique to South Thailand, specifically Phuket. It is a heavenly dish comprised of fish slowly simmered in a spicy, red curry until it has broken into small pieces, infused with kaffir lime leaf, ginger, and shrimp paste.

The Tree House (at Anantara Phuket resort)
888 Moo 3 ,Tumbon Mai Khao,
Amphur Thalang, Phuket 83110
Tel: +66 (0) 7633 6100
If you want a place with great sea view and good food, forget Baan Rim Pa, try The Tree House instead. True to its name, this lofty restaurant is accessed by a spiral staircase wrapped around an aged banyan tree. They serve a collection of Thai fusion tapas to be enjoyed in comfy oversized chairs.

Try their Grilled Lamb with Harissa Mayonnaise, Wagyu Salami on Bread Aged Cheddar and their Laab Moo (spicy pork salad with roasted rice and mint leaves).

The 9th Floor
47 Rat-U-Thid Rd. Sky Inn Condotel,
Patong 83150 Phuket
Tel: +66 (0) 7634 4311
If one is sick of local cuisine, check out The 9th Floor. This hip Mediterranean-Swiss-Italian-Thai joint is encased in a run-down building but once you enter the restaurant on the ninth floor, you will be transported into a different world completely. Owned by a Swiss, the entire outfit prides itself as the “highest open-air restaurant in Phuket”, and truly, it is spacious with views over Patong and the bay.

Its menu is eclectic but you have to try their Risotto al Funghi, a starter of mixed mushrooms and white wine in a fine creamy sauce. For main course, stick to Australian Tenderloin “Truffle”, a grilled piece of meaty heaven wrapped with parma ham enhanced by truffle oil and mushroom sauce. It was simply more-ish.

Definitely go during sunset (ask for a table by their massive windows) and have a wonderful dinner with your partner.

NIGHTLIFE
Alright, why are you even going out clubbing on a romantic trip for two?! Nonetheless, if you are bitten by the dancing bug, then check out Phuket’s only gay zone at Patong Beach, mostly centered in Paradise Complex, complete with gay bars, clubs, restaurants, guesthouses and shops. Boogie away, you glamazons.

1.Chic*
2.Orchid*
Two different bars but all rather popular and have rated well amongst friends. They all have friendly staff, and relatively good cocktails (although honestly, do stick to Singha beer). Chic also has a karaoke section, so those who feel a spot of warbling and attention-grabbing, head there.

3.Kiss Club*
4.Boat Bar*
Both are popular clubs with good music and crowds, including fun, cabaret shows at midnight and 2 a.m. Many people like to start the night with the bars that are lined further front, and then end it at Boat Bar or Kiss Club. Why not check out the first show at Kiss Club then the second one at Boat Bar? By the end of it all, who knows – maybe you and your partner might be inspired to do some private cabaret tease act in your villa or hotel room.

*All bars and clubs located at Paradise Complex, Patong Beach

5. Simon Cabaret Show
100/6-8 Moo 4, Patong,
Tel: +66 (0) 7634 2115
If clubbing is not your thing, check out Simon Cabaret Show – an institution in itself famed for its flashy, huge extravaganza nightly drag shows. Commonly overheard from curious straight folks “Is she really a woman? Are they girls or boys?!” which adds to the element of fun while you knowingly raise your eyebrows to your partner and roll your eyeballs.

Words: James Soo

Where do you even begin with a city like London? Everyone and everything is there, from the hipsters in East London to the well-heeled in the West, from the parks in the North to the clubs in the South.

GETTING THERE

It’s a cinch to get there from Hong Kong, with dozens of direct flights a day. If you want to spare your cash for the city itself (cos it ain’t cheap) you might want to go via Dubai with Emirates or even via China with Air China or China Eastern. Fares can be as low as half of Cathay’s.

SLEEP

London’s huge and transport’s expensive, so it’s a good idea to stay near where you’re going to be spending most of your time. All the international chains are represented, but London also has its fair share of cool boutique hotels. Here are our picks:

The May Fair

Stratton Street, London

themayfairhotel.co.uk

400 rooms of 5 star luxury in the heart of the West End, this isn’t a boutique hotel but it has all the trimmings to be one. With a 200 seat private cinema, a beautiful Asian-themed spa as well as a casino, the May Fair’s recent facelift has transformed it into one of London’s best new hotels. If you’re going to London for sightseeing, its location just minutes away from Green Park is probably the best in town.

Blakes

33 Roland Gardens, London

blakeshotels.com

This is easily the most over-the-top boutique hotel in town, if not the world. Designed by Anouska Hempel, each room is extravagantly and luxuriously overstuffed with antiques and objets d’art with themes such as the British Raj or Napoleonic Egypt. Its location in South Kensington is perfect for museum-goers as well as those who are going to be mostly in West London (Notting Hill, Kensington, Chelsea).

The Rookery

Peters Lane, Cowcross Street, London

rookeryhotel.com

My favourite hotel in London, the Rookery is an odd jumble of two or three old townhouses that have been joined together with little warren-like corridors. The rooms are all slightly period – with beautiful heavy oak four-poster beds and stunning free-standing roll-lipped bath-tubs – and are all named after infamous criminals from the 19th century. Its location in Clerkenwell is ideal for East End clubbers and fashionistas.

EAT

Not too long ago, London gastronomy was a desert made up of dried bits of fish finger and the occasional boiled sprout. Then in the 90s people suddenly discovered cooking and the city is now filled with incredible places. While there are the usual star places, here are some more unusual eateries that are well worth the effort to get to:

St John

26 St John Street

stjohnrestaurant.com

One of the standards of Modern British food, St John actually looks very much to the past for its inspiration. Famous for serving odd cuts of meat, offal and bizarre ingredients, dishes are typically things like ox heart or eel. The only rule is to order something you’ve never heard of – you’ll probably be pleasantly surprised.

Les Trois Garcons

1 Club Row, London

loungelover.co.uk

You come here more for the atmosphere than for the food. Owned by two antique collectors and their partner (in all senses of the word – hence the name), the restaurant is filled with stuffed tigers, enormous chandeliers, vintage handbags and all sorts of wonderful ghastly stuff. If you have a reservation, you automatically get a table for aperitifs at their sister bar round the corner – the quirky and delicious Loungelover.

Bob Bob Ricard

1 Upper James Street, London

bobbobricard.com

Just a wonderful brasserie in the heart of Soho, Bob Bob Ricard takes you back to the 30s with a surreal twist. All tables are low-lit booths and there’s a faint Slavic atmosphere to the menu. Each table has a champagne call button and their cocktails are to die for.

SEE

Just get a copy of Time Out – published every Wednesday. But a word of warning – shows and even exhibitions tend to get sold out ages in advance. If there’s something you really want to see, try booking online before your trip.

SHOPPING

You’ll need a fat wallet because shopping in London is a dream come true. Big names jostle with small boutiques, and markets abound. Go to Oxford Street to the Top Man flagship store. Then run away as fast as you can. Head down to Carnaby Street and stop in at ubertrendy French label The Kooples and if you have to go to a department store, go to Liberty. Walk over to Covent Garden and check out the funky little boutiques there – for menswear, the area around Floral Street is heaven. But the great thing is that this is only the tip of the iceberg. Shoreditch is filled with hip new designers who might have guerilla stores on Saturdays (also check out Dover Street Market – the Comme des Garcons concept boutique). For food and wine, head down to Borough Market on a Saturday morning, and if you want flowers, it’s Columbia Road. Portobello Road on a Saturday has hundreds of stalls, as well as permanent shops selling antiques and bric-a-brac. Whatever you want you can get in London – for instance, Get Stuffed in Islington specialises in taxidermy, and Rococo Chocolates on the King’s Road are famous for flavours like Sea Salt, Chili Pepper, Jasmine and Earl Grey.

NIGHTLIFE

Soho is obviously homo heaven. But there are plenty of other off-beat places you should try to get to. Vauxhall has developed a fairly hardcore club scene under the railway arches and the East End has a number of (naturally) hip gay venues.

George & Dragon / Joiners Arms

2 Hackney Road / 116-118 Hackney Road

Tiny, but fabulous gay pub in Hoxton, the George & Dragon has been a staple on the gay scene in the East End for years. It’s often totally packed, and is filled with art students and designers – some pretty famous faces make an appearance here from time to time – and the reason why is because it’s so knowingly hip. Just up the road is The Joiners Arms where the scene is a little less art school and a little more rough.

The Royal Vauxhall Tavern

372 Kennington Lane

If you want alternative, the RVT is it. Saturday nights are legendary with performance artists and cabaret and the music is refreshingly different – instead of gay disco, it’s punk and thrash. If you’re into muscles, go to Box (Seven Dials, 32-34 Monmouth Street) in the West End. If you have a brain, try the RVT.

Vault 139

139b-143 Whitfield Street

A proper kind of upmarket sex club in the center of town, they have naked nights three times a week (just hand in your clothes to the cloakroom staff) and the rest of the time it’s underwear only. Small siderooms off the main bar allow you to try your hand at whatever takes your fancy.

Fort

131 Grange Road

Just about the sleaziest club in town, Fort has a very strict dress code which varies from day to day but will generally be something like shoes only, hats only, piercings only etc. – you get the picture. Don’t be surprised if someone pisses on you. Honestly, it happens.

Words: Boyd van Hoeij, photo by Fabrizio Maltese
Tucked away in a far northwest corner of the United States, Seattle is a thriving industrial city that houses the likes of Boeing and Microsoft. Despite its rainy climate, it is also one of the most fascinating and lively towns on the Pacific coast, with a large cultural offer and an amazing nightlife. And you’ve got no excuse to sleep through any of it, since it’s also the birthplace of Starbucks and has one of the biggest concentrations of coffee places on the planet.

GETTING THERE

There are no direct flights form Hong Kong to Seattle-Tacoma airport (incidentally an airport that’s run by the same company responsible for the area’s enormous sea port), though direct flights are available to Vancouver, which is about 140 miles north, and connecting flights are available though many international hubs..

SLEEP

Gaslight Inn
www.gaslight-inn.com

1727 15th Avenue, Seattle, WA 98122

An old, beautifully appointed mansion in a quiet but central neighborhood that’s gay-owned. With period furniture combined with more modern artworks on the walls and the tables and a small heated swimming pool out in the back yard. The Inn also has two special rooms destined for single occupancy only. The ground floor has a large breakfast room, salon and library, while some of the rooms have their own hearths.

Squire Park Guest House
www.squireparkguest.com

1208 & 1210 E Barclay Court, Seattle, WA 98122

Something a little more modern than the Gaslight Inn (though from the same owners) are the suites at the Squire Park Guest House, which have their own kitchen, living room and garden or, one floor up, outer deck. Ideally situated next to Seattle University, where all the young people hang out. With Wifi.

Hotel Andra
www.hotelandra.com

2000 4th Avenue, Seattle, WA 98121

A boutique hotel with a wonderful contemporary design. Ideally situated in Seattle’s Midtown neighborhood, this hotel also features the Lola restaurant, where chef Tom Douglas has created a menu that combines local northwestern cuisine with Greek influences.

EAT

Taste (Seattle Art Museum)
www.tastesam.com

1300 1st Avenue, Seattle, WA 98101

This sleek restaurant on the ground floor or the Seattle Art Museum is a good place for a quick lunch downtown or a lazy Sunday brunch. The museum is, of course, also worth checking out, with its enormous collection of art from all periods and the four corners of the globe.

Lark
www.larkseattle.com

926 12th Avenue, Seattle, WA 98122

A cozy yet contemporary atmosphere are on offer at Lark, in the Capitol Hill district. The focus is on seasonal and local produce, including some excellent local cheeses. Just next door is Lark’s sister company, the lounge Licorous, which offers excellent drinks and a small selection of nibbles to accompany your glass of wine.

Black Bottle
blackbottleseattle.com

2600 1st Ave, Seattle, WA 98121

This spartanly furnished brick building is one of the many places that offers what the locals call “small

plates,” and which can be compared to Spanish tapas or Italian antipasti. The idea is to order several smaller dishes and share them between friends, rather than each person ordering one big dish. Make sure to order some of the vegetable dishes, though the seafood ones are hard to resist, too.

Jules Maes Saloon & Eatery
www.julesmaes.com

5919 Airport Way S, Seattle, WA 98127

This typical saloon – big pints of bear, omelets and comfort food – is located outside of town, just opposite an old brewery and the Georgetown farmers market, which is held on Saturdays from May through October (georgetownfarmersmarket.wordpress.com).

SEE

Space Needle
www.spaceneedle.com

219 4th Avenue, Seattle, WA 98109

The most famous of all buildings in town, in part because of its futuristic design, this is a must if you’re into beautiful sights from great heights.

Smith Tower
www.smithtower.com

506 2nd Avenue, Seattle, WA 98104

The equivalent of the space tower on the other side of town is the Smith Tower, the oldest skyscraper in Seattle, constructed in 1914, mainly out of terra cotta! The elevators are still operated manually and take you up to the Chinese room on the top floor, from which you have an amazing view.

Frye Art Museum
www.fryeart.com

704 Terry Avenue, Seattle, WA 98104

There are more visible and famous art museums in town, but the real discovery is the Frye Art Museum in the First Hill neighborhood. It’s specialized in 19th- and 20th-century as well as contemporary art. The collection of the late Charles and Emma Frye has always been free for the public, as stipulated in the Frye’s will.

Seattle Central Library
www.spl.org

1000 Fourth Avenue, Seattle, WA 98104

An amazing glass and steel building designed by Rem Koolhaas that architecture lovers can’t miss. The book spiral inside showcases the entire library’s fiction collection in one continuous bookcase that spirals upwards over four floors.

SHOPPING

Left Bank Books
www.leftbankbooks.com

Right opposite the entrance of the Pike Place Market is this must-see independent book store, which stocks a great selection of GLBT reading and independent and local art and queer magazines in the back of the store. The place caters to what it calls “the radical community” and is co-owned by all the people that work there.

Pike Place Market
www.pikeplacemarket.org

1531 Western Avenue, Seattle, WA 9810

One of the most famous touristy places in Seattle, Pike Place Market is a hub of activity you don’t want to miss. Situated on Elliot Bay, overlooking the waterfront, the farmer’s market has been in operation for over 100 years. Just opposite the market, you’ll also find the very first Starbucks location, which still retains the company’s original logo (where the mermaid still has breasts, later censored).

NIGHTLIFE

Pike Pine Triangle
www.pikepinetriangle.com

The area with the highest frequency of gay and gay-friendly bars and clubs is the Pike Pine triangle, which is one of Seattle’s liveliest districts, up on Capitol Hill. It has over 50 restaurants and bars, 15 coffee houses and over a dozen theatres and galleries. Seattle’s LGBT Community Center is also housed here. The area is sometimes referred to as the Pike-Pine corridor or as the Gay Village, though it’s a more eclectic mix than that, with a neat mix of counterculture, avant-garde and queer sensibility.

Chapel
www.chapelseattle.com

1600 Melrose Avenue, Seattle, WA 98122

This popular bar is housed in a mortuary from the 1920s, which accounts for its sleek architecture. It’s used as a lounge space by day and turns into a club at night.

R Place Seattle
www.rplaceseattle.com

Corner of East Pine Street and Boylston

This gay club, on several floors, has something for everyone. Great drinks, go-go boys and drag acts on special occasions and music ranging from mainstream club to hip-hop and blues. Karaoke on Sundays and some weekdays.

Madison Pub
www.madisonpub.com

1315 E Madison St, Seattle, WA 98122

A gay pub for sports lovers: TVs are everywhere, and many of the biggest sports events are followed closely here. Beer and wines, darts and pool.

Words: James Soo

Hanoi or Saigon? For me, it’s Hanoi every time. They’re both crazy urban sprawls signalling Vietnam’s recent economic growth. But unlike Saigon, Hanoi has oodles of charm. From the labyrinthine Old Quarter to the relaxed pace around Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi has the best of all that Vietnam has to offer.

GETTING THERE
There are daily flights between Hong Kong and Hanoi. Even budget carrier Hong Kong Express plies the two-hour route. Don’t forget to get your visa in advance as you can only get a visa on arrival if you have applied beforehand.

SLEEP
Hanoi is very nicely arranged around Hoan Kiem Lake with accommodation to the North (Old Quarter and backpacker), the West (mid-range) and to the East (luxury and business).

Sofitel Legend Hanoi Metropole
www.sofitel-legend.com/hanoi
15 Ngo Quyen Street
This is the place to make your dreams of empire come true. Dating back to 1901, the Metropole still has Hanoi’s fanciest digs and has seen some of Vietnam’s most famous visitors. If you want to see the city in style, ask to stay in the Historical Wing and specify a room with a view. Unmatched for charm and class.

The Church Hotel
www.churchhotel.com.vn
9 Nha Tho
A really lovely boutique hotel right in the middle of the Old Town, rooms overlooking the street have huge cathedral windows (hence the name) and is in the relatively quieter Western part of the lake. Loads of great restaurants nearby and St Joseph’s Cathedral is just round the corner.

Hanoi Old Centre Hotel
www.hanoioldcentrehotel.com
19 Hang Hanh Street
Formerly the Lakeside Hotel, this little place is on a very quiet street just next door to the lake. The staff are easily among the friendliest you are likely to meet in Vietnam and the prices are very reasonable.

EAT
There is no end of food available in Hanoi, from phenomenal streetfood (just point at what you want and sit down on one of the little children’s stools that clog up the sidewalks) to gourmet Vietnamese fusion.

Restaurant Bobby Chinn
www.bobbychinn.com
77 Xuan Dieu Street, Tay Ho District
Local (and international) celebrity Bobby Chinn’s flagship restaurant is a must, especially if you’re a fan of his cookery show. Phenomenal food (but at international prices), this is one of Hanoi’s best.

Highway No. 4 Hang Tre
www.highway4.com
3-5 Hang Tre
A superb Vietnamese-with-a-twist restaurant with superb takes on all things Vietnamese but in a cool modern exterior. The only trouble is that the menu is very dependent on their suppliers so quite often what’s available can change from day to day.

Cha Ca La Vong
14 Pho Cha Ca
This deeply local place is high on the tourist list unfortunately, but it’s worth the trip if for the atmosphere alone. It’s an old Chinese shophouse that hasn’t ever seen any renovations since the pre-war era and they only serve one dish – Cha Ca or grilled fish. Service is mixed, but that adds to the ambience, and there is something to be said for frying up your own Cha Ca on a hot griddle, inhaling the steam and watching crowds of colorful visitors jostling for your hard-won seat.

SEE
Ho Chi Minh’s Museum Complex
Even though Uncle Ho actually wanted his ashes to be scattered all over Vietnam, the Vietnamese couldn’t bear to let the father of modern Vietnam disappear into dust. So instead his body has been embalmed and lies in state at the Mausoleum. It’s free to visit, but get there early and make sure you wear respectful clothing (no shorts, no flip-flops etc). High on the list for people who have are ticking off embalmed totalitarian statesmen. A must see though is the totally surreal Ho Chi Minh Museum where you’ll pass through a series of bizarre art installations illuminating the struggle of the human spirit against fascism or something. Brilliant and perplexing.

Temple of Literature
Built in 1070, this is pretty much Hanoi’s oldest building, and it’s an interesting insight into the world of the Vietnamese kingdom. This was the highest educational establishment in the realm and giant stelae show off the names of its graduates, among whom number some of Vietnam’s greatest figures. Pretty gardens and courtyards also make it a pleasant change from the throngs around.

Hoa Lo Prison (The Hanoi Hilton)
In a horrific way, this is the site that represents all of Vietnamese history in the 20th century. The site started off as a French Indochine internment complex for anti-French rebels. Surviving Hoa Lo (which means fiery furnace in Vietnamese) gave the Viet Minh revolutionaries much kudos. After the French were ousted in 1954, the prison became the holding cell for counter-revolutionaries. Then once more during the American War it became a prisoner of war camp holding such dignitaries as John McCain, when it was dubbed the Hanoi Hilton. After the war, it went back to holding Vietnamese counter-revolutionaries until it eventually succumbed to the ultimate enemy – economics – and most of the land was sold off to the developers of today’s Hanoi Towers.

SHOPPING
There are opportunities galore to spend spend spend in Hanoi. The best place to start would have to be the Old Town (and for most visitors would likely end there). Good souvenirs are of course Vietnamese coffee & coffee makers. Go to Hwong Mai on 15 Hang Manh to get some of the famous civet coffee – the coffee beans first get eaten and partly digested by civet cats and then their droppings are processed into some seriously expensive coffee. Other good buys are old propaganda posters (make sure you get hand-painted ones) and made-to-measure clothes.

NIGHTLIFE
Even though there isn’t technically a curfew, a lot of places shut before midnight. That said, Hanoi doesn’t ever shut its doors completely. A good place to start is the Old Quarter at the intersection of Luong Ngoc Quyen and Ta Hien for a quick bia hoi. From there, head to Mao’s Red Lounge (7 Ha Tien) which is a cool hole in the wall with cheap drinks. Dragonfly (15 Hang Buom) attracts a good crowd most nights of Hanoi residents, while Half Man Half Noodle (62 Dao Duy Tu) is a fun place to meet up for a ruou coconut (lethal!). Finally, dance the night away along the Red River at Phuc Tan Bar (51 To Gian Alley), but make sure you take a cab because it’s impossible to find.

Words: Bryan Chan

There is so much to say about this city, there isn’t room to accommodate every little thing about it. Vienna though is internationally known as a very cultural city, its districts boast of splendid classical architecture, its museums have some of the best art collections in the world, and the theaters, concert halls and opera houses all vibrate to the exquisite sounds of excellent music. This capital city is a melting pot of different European cultures thus reassuring its visitors of a colorful melange of unforgettable experiences. Walk its streets. Relax in its cafés. Immerse yourself in its music. Live its nightlife. Vienna is calling.

GETTING THERE

Vienna is at the very heart of Europe. Being one of the world´s major holiday destinations, it is an important stop for almost all international airline companies. Austria´s flag carrier, Austrian, together with the Star Alliance Network can surely take you to its capital efficiently. Cathay Pacific connects the skies between Hong Kong and Vienna daily at very good rates.

SLEEP

Vienna is at the very heart of Europe. Being one of the world´s major holiday destinations, it is an important stop for almost all international airline companies. Austria´s flag carrier, Austrian, together with the Star Alliance Network can surely take you to its capital efficiently. Cathay Pacific connects the skies between Hong Kong and Vienna daily at very good rates.

Le Meridien

www.starwoodhotels.com/lemeridien

One of Vienna´s popular designer hotels, it is centrally located, just a few steps away from the Vienna State Opera.pect from a 5 star hotel.

Hotel Drei Kronen

www.hotel3kronen.at

Located right next to the famous Viennese Naschmarkt, this stylish hotel is a must for lovers of art-nouveau interiors.

Hotel Sofitel (Vienna Stephansdom)

www.sofitel.com/gb/hotel-6599-sofitel-vienna-stephansdom/

The newest and the most modern hotel in town. Designed by star architect Jean Nouvel, this establishment is reputed to have the best rooms with the best view of the city. For a special experience, try the bar and restaurant at the penthouse floor.

EAT

You´d be surprised at how much food you can get reasonably in this city. All international cuisines are well represented here, from Vietnamese to Irish. Don´t forget to do the rounds with the local Cafés! They are unique to this city. If you´re made to choose only one pastry, let it be the beloved Apfelstrudl! For those who want it sweeter, there can only be the Sacher Cake.

Motto

www.motto.at

Very popular with local celebrities, its fusion kitchen is worth trying. And so is the bar. Want to see and be seen? This is the place for you.

Cafe Berg

www.cafe-berg.at

A combined gay café and restaurant, you can enjoy your favorite read over a Viennese Mélange all day long.

Deli am Naschmarkt

www.naschmarkt-deli.at

Located right in the middle of the Vienna Market, this place is a popular hangout, especially full in the weekends. Try their grilled lambchops!

SEE

The whole city center is a tourist sight. Take the Ring Tram for a quick tour of the highlights. This transport would take you to important stops like the City Hall, the Hofburg Palace, the Parliament, the Art History Museum, and of course the Vienna Opera House. When in Vienna, you go to see what´s going on on-stage, and not on-screen. For art enthusiasts, there´s enough hanging in Viennese museums to blind you.

Palaces

Being a former imperial center, Vienna hosts a number of magnificent palaces. Schönbrunn Palace is one of the most important cultural monuments in Austria. It houses the oldest Zoo in the world and boasts a park with a stunning baroque garden. The Hofburg Palace is the former imperial residence. Today it is the official residence of the President of Austria. It hosts a number of museums including the Sissi Museum. The Belvedere is Prince Eugene´s city palace. The complex consists of two exquisite buildings: the Lower, and the Upper and Belveder, home to Gustav Klimt´s famous painting ‘The Kiss’.

Performances

Catch an opera performance at the Vienna State Opera. It has the most extensive opera repertoire in the world! Admission doesn´t have to be expensive. For standing-room tickets you can enjoy Verdi´s ‘La Traviata’ for €3.00. Experience the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra live. They have regular performances at the Vienna Musikverein. Standing-room tickets are also available here. The earlier you take a queue, a couple of hours before the performances, the better.

Museums

MUMOK (Museum of Modern Art) is the largest Austrian museum for international modern and contemporary art. Its collection contains around 9,000 works: paintings, drawings, installations, sculptures, graphic works, photos, videos, films, architectural models and furniture from the first half of the 20th century as well as documentary material specially related to the art of the 60’s of the last century. The Kunsthistorisches Museum (Art History Museum) has a collection ranging from Ancient Egyptian and Greek and Roman Antiquities to the Collections of Medieval Art to the splendid Renaissance and Baroque Collections. They are amongst the most important and spectacular in the world. Meanwhile, the collections at Kunsthaus Wien (Museum Hundertwasser) include Austrian painter Friedensreich Hundertwasser´s key paintings as well as graphic works, applied art, architectural designs and examples of the artist’s ecological commitment.

NIGHTLIFE

The Event to look forward to in Vienna is the famous Life Ball. It is an annual glamorous and likewise very eccentric ball and the biggest charity bash in Europe to fight HIV and AIDS. It takes place this year at the Vienna City Hall on May 21. Check www.lifeball.org for tickets. Quarterly, for every season, there’s Drama Club, a huge party led by famous international DJ’s with a charming old beer brewery as its venue. Just recently launched is Circus Club, which is expected to become a quarterly event. Other annual gay highlights are the Regenbogenball (Rainbow Ball) and Rosenball (Ball of the Roses) in winter, the Vienna Bear Congress in spring, the queer film festival identities in June, the Rainbow Parade in July, and Wien in Schwarz (Vienna in Black) in October. Of course there are also goings-on for the typical weekend night out.

Up! Club

www.upclub.at

Mariahilferstrasse 3, 1060 Vienna

Celebrating one year of crazy partying, it is frequented by a young crowd of party animals. Fashionistas included. Usually on the first and third Friday of the month.

Pitbull

www.pitbull-clubbing.at

Zieglergasse 26, A-1070 Vienna

Usually every fourth Friday of the Month, this is Vienna´s gay night for bears, cubs, chubbies & their admirers.

Heaven

Neubaugasse 2, 1070 Vienna

Hosted by star transvestite Miss Candy, this is one of Vienna´s oldest weekly clubbing event. Opens on Saturdays from 10 pm onwards.

Why Not

www.why-not.at

Tiefer Graben 22, 1010 Wien

A gay club at the old center of Vienna, it has a young clientele of gay and lesbian mix. Music played are mainstream disco gay hits as well as local Austro-German dance pop.

By Rey Alan Lacuin – contributing writer from Austria’s Vangardist magazine (www.vangardist.com)