Copenhagen
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Text: Tobias Holfelt
Denmark was the first country in the world to introduce partnership-laws for gay and lesbian couples in 1989. The last week of July this year it will be on the world’s gay-map once again as it will be host to the 2009 World Outgames. It is estimated that participants from up to 100 countries around the world will visit Copenhagen during this week. The event will be a mix of sports, games, culture and a human rights conferences. The same week Copenhagen Pride will also take place, ending with a parade through the city. All of Copenhagen will certainly be very rainbow-coloured that week, and most events will take place in the city centre. Sights Strøget, one of Europe’s longest pedestrian streets, is lined with everything from exclusive boutiques to department stores and stretches all through the central city. It starts just by Town hall square, Rådhuspladsen. Here you can find famous Danish classical design. Take a walk down the side streets as well, and you will find the shops of the new up-coming designers. After you have walked down the 1,5 miles or so, to the other side, you will find yourself at Kongens Nytorv, another square and the gateway to Nyhavn, the perfect place to rest your feet. Once upon a time it was home to sailors, and sleazy bars and prostitutes but is now a chic stretch of restaurants and bars along the channel. At Kongens Nytorv you will also find the Royal Theatre. Not far away is also the Royal castle Amalienborg, if you feel royalist, and it is open for guided tours. If the Queen Margarethe is at home, the flag will fly from the roof. Back near the Town hall square are two more famous sights. Ny Carlsbergs Glyptotek, a famous art museum, with among other things are ancient sculptures from Egypt and Greece, as well as more modern art, like a nice collection of Gauguin. Next to it is the amusement park Tivoli. It is full with attractions in a somewhat old-fashioned way, green, nestled in a beautiful garden. A tip though: eat before you go in. There are plenty of restaurants inside, but most of them are not particularly good, over-priced and a bit of a tourist-rip-off. The most famous attraction of all, for some strange reason, is Den Lille Havfrue, the Little Mermaid. If you manage to find it, you will be surprised how small it is. However it tends to cover most tourist-brochures and is a bit of a trademark for Copenhagen. If you don’t have much time – buy the postcard. Worth noting is the Copenhagen Opera House, a modern building opened in 2004 and designed by Henning Larsen. The home of the Royal Danish Opera a visit here is perfect for those wanting to experience classical or modern opera and ballet performances. The best way to get around the city is by bicycle. In many places around town, tourists can borrow a bike for free, just deposit a coin into the “public” bike (and no this doesn’t mean the local slut!), and you are on the way (and, yes, you will get the coin back). For the more laid-back there’s always the option of getting the Copenhagen-card, with access to all public transport during a period of time. Eat/Drink Copenhagen has plenty to offer to every taste. Recently the Michelin Guide awarded a total of 14 stars to restaurants in the city. The top end would be Noma, which received 2 stars, located just next to the waterfront – be prepared to book months in advance – and a hefty bill. On the other end of the price-scale is the very Danish red hot dog. You will find it all over town in hot-dog-stands and is a must for the visitor. In between there is of course a wide range of different possibilities. You should of course try the Danish “smørrebrød” (an open sandwich), why not with some herring on it. Denmark, or at least Carlsberg, is of course also famous for the slogan “probably the best lager in the world”. The Carlsberg museum is open for visitors all year around. One does not of course have to go to a museum to indulge in beer-tasting in Copenhagen. There are bars and pubs all around, and the “green” Tuborg lager can be bought virtually everywhere. Gay-life Copenhagen is as open and safe for gay-people as any other city in Western Europe. Most of the gay areas are located near the Town Hall Square, and it’s easy to walk between the different places. There are many gay-bars and night-clubs in Copenhagen so it’s just a question of finding the one you like the most. A good place to start your exploring of Copenhagen is a stop at Oscar, just around the corner from Town Hall. It’s a café as well as a restaurant and bar. Have a good lunch and browse through the gay-guides that you will find here. The main Danish gay-magazine is Out-and-About (www.outandabout.dk) and they also have a gay-guide in English with a map so you will find your way home at night. While you are around, don’t miss the oldest gay-pub in Copenhagen, Centralhjørnet, a lively joint where its age does not reflect on its costumers who are from young to old. Note that in Denmark, dark-rooms are not permitted in night-clubs, perhaps because there is no need to hide. However there are a few saunas and a couple of clubs do have darkrooms for members. Where to stay Copenhagen is a pricy city, and hotels do not come cheap either. There are no explicit gay-hotels in the city, (but relax, discrimination and any kind of mistreatment due to sexual orientation is a criminal offence in Denmark). There are however, a few gay guesthouses, which may also save your budget somewhat. Try and browse the hotel-booking-sites for the best offers and discounts. If you travel during the World Outgames, rooms have been booked a long time in advance. At his moment there are still some available at www.nordic-rainbow.com A mere half-hour train ride away, across a long bridge, is another country – Sweden – but that’s another story. |









