Text: Samuel Wu

Long regarded as the playground of the uber rich and famous in Bangkok, Hua Hin is well-known as being the King’s favorite holiday destination. Much loved was this beach resort town by the King Prajadhipok, Rama VII, that he built a summer palace for himself and Queen Rampai Phanee. And before one could say “Sawadee-krup, khun sabai dee ruer?!” (hello, how are you?), Hua Hin suddenly became ‘royalty’, gained immediate attention and glam, and quickly became Thailand’s first beach resort town.

Hua Hin, some 200km south of Bangkok and a 3-hour car-ride away, has since become favored by the wealthy as a weekend getaway hideout. Because the current King of Thailand’s permanent royal residence is at the Wang Klai Kang Won Palace, it is a town that is well-maintained and clean – both literally and figuratively.

What about the gay traveler? Is Hua Hin worth the ‘back-breaking’ 3-hour sojourn?

Well, it truly depends on what one wants to do. If Miss Thing wants to do the whole clubbing, drinking-till-dawn-and-passing-out-in-alleyways route, then Hua Hin offers little by way of a hip, party gay scene. There are, to our knowledge, only two small gay bars.

Hua Hin can’t compete with Bangkok as a nightlife or shopping mecca. Its most exciting market would be its nightly street market – a popular (but short) stretch of stalls selling the usual suspects of clothes, trinkets, souvenirs, food and the like.

However, as a tranquil seaside beach resort, Hua Hin does deliver in terms of the sun, sand and sea. Well, admittedly, the waters aren’t as crystal clear as, say, Maldives or Bora Bora, nor is it as beautiful as Koh Samui or Phuket, Thailand’s other famous beach resorts. So why Hua Hin then?

Hua Hin is, in a word, charming. It has a certain appeal about it in its unassuming, relaxed vibe. Not as commercialized as Phuket, nor as nuts as Bangkok, but wonderfully quaint, simple and… charming! (Oops, have I already mentioned that?)

Hua Hin is teeming with celebrity events, launch parties, and festivals. For instance, the well-known Hua Hin Jazz Festival attracts many local and international acts, and is celebrating its 100th year anniversary! And with its ever-rising solid reputation as a premier spa and resort destination, many new establishments (hotels, resorts, villas and condos) have been launched, muscling in on the red-hot property action.

So, when one is in Hua Hin, expect a relaxing holiday where one can be pampered with top-notch spa treatments and massages. Spend a bit more to stay at award-winning resorts and villas to allow our body, mind and soul to reconnect, recharge. And if one is bored by all this pampering, the beach is at your doorstep.

WHERE TO STAY

1. Yaiya (http://www.yaiyaresort.com/)

One of the newest boutique resorts in Hua Hin, Yaiya was simply divine. All of 40 rooms, including two- and three-bedroom villas, its size allowed the super friendly staff to be very attentive to all our needs. Beautiful and well-designed, Yaiya offered a tranquil haven guaranteed to calm the frazzled nerves of any city rat. This was clearly evidenced by a sudden invasion of Mercedes cars parked in the driveway on Saturday, and on Sunday morning at breakfast, we spied gaggles of “happy” bois complete with hags in tow. So, yes, a very gay-friendly resort indeed.

Each villa had two floors, with the main bedroom situated upstairs right by the private “infinity” pool. And when we had enough of tanning by the pool, we traipsed to the beach which was right at our backyard. If we wanted to chat with the shy but friendly staff, we headed to the main pool which had its own bar and sunken seats. A lemongrass martini in the afternoon while seated submerged in a quiet pool really hit the spot!

Be sure to try their spa, which is crafted from the very people who created the AKA Spa Chiangmai. Be pampered by their spa packages, which include the heavenly Shirodhara and Ayurvedic massage, and the Aromatic Oil Massage with Reflexology.

The very best part of Yaiya? There were absolutely NO KIDS and a great spa for pampering ourselves.

2. AKA Hua Hin Resorts (http://www.akaresorts.com/aka-huahin/hua-hin-resort.php)

Another beautiful exclusive resort nestled near the hillside, AKA promises to deliver on its five-star reputation. A very close second choice for us, except we wanted to be near a beach.

3. Six Senses Hua Hin (http://www.sixsenses.com/Six-Senses-Hideaway-Hua-Hin/)

The epitome of luxury, Six Senses is romantic, gorgeous and is a perfect hideaway for couples.

WHERE TO EAT

Hua Hin is famous for their seafood, being a beach resort town, so ensure that you hit all the well-known seafood restaurants that offer food which are both affordable and super yummy!

1. Moon Smile & Platoo

On our very first night, we ventured deep into the bar and party area in Hua Hin, and were pleasantly surprised to find Hua Hin’s best kept dining secret. Locals and well-informed tourists would know of this place that offered seafood that was simply sublime. Absolutely deelish. A charming, small outfit run by a very chatty and friendly mama chef, we ordered green curry, tom yum goong, crab fried rice, steamed fish, prawns and morning glory. In case you’re wondering, there’s no spelling error – Platoo is the name of the chef’s young son. A must-try.

2. Chom Talay – Phetkasem Road (next to airport), Tel: 032-547-2534

This delightful beachfront restaurant is a great spot for al fresco dining. Pushed up against the water’s edge, it has an easy-going charm and a romantic ambience, especially at night where torches light up the garden. The menu features a wide selection of delicious seafood dishes, but noteworthy was their stir fried mud crab with X.O. sauce. We licked up every last bit of that piquant dish!

3. Sarah Jane’s – 28/1 Poonsuk Road Tel: 032-532-990

Sarah Jane’s offers something different from your regular Thai food by serving Esan cuisine, the northeast part of Thailand. We tried the barbecue chicken and pork (gai yahng and moo yahng) which were fresh from the fire. Yums scrumps!

They are also well-known for their Italian cuisine too, but we steered clear of those!

For a quiet, relaxing, romantic getaway, Hua Hin is definitely the place to go.