Words: Ash Pritchard

first came across Pai about 5-6 years ago, when a Thai friend took me there during the high season that runs between late November and April. At that time, Pai was lush and green with mist hanging around in the evenings and crisp days of clear skies and glorious sunshine. The valley of Pai is set around a river and surrounded by mountains. Pai itself is a quiet little town, no big hotels or resorts have planted themselves here, so there’s a community feeling and smiles that stand out in their sincerity, even in the ‘land of smiles’. Pai is three hours north of Chiang Mai (by car/bus) in the far north of Thailand on the road to Mae Hong Song in the ‘Golden Triangle’. Pai also has its own Hong Kong connection, former head chef of Lucy’s restaurant Anon and his partner Mark have taken over a small cafe/restaurant called the Witching Well.

GETTING THERE

Numerous airlines fly frequently to Bangkok from Hong Kong where you can get a connecting flight to Chiang Mai then it’s three hours north by car/bus or a 20-minute plane journey (www.nokmini.com).

SLEEP

There are numerous accommodation options to suit all tastes, styles and budgets, and it’s worth hiring a moped and shooting around town using a free local map (available from most bars, cafes & restaurants) to take a look at the options. In high season, book in advance for the best choices. Prices vary greatly from low season to high season… some great bargains to be had in low season for sure!

Happy House Guest House

227 Moo 8, Tambon Viangtai, Pai, Maehonghson 58130.

Email: fm.cd@hotmail.com

Tel: 08-7671 0132 (Fritz) / 08-6182-4004

Price (per night): 200-400 Baht (Room) / 400-800 Baht (Bungalow)

Buzz: Gay-owned and run by Australian/Thai couple Fritz and Anon (a different Anon to The Witching Well) this guest house is situated off a side street and about five minutes walk from Pai’s main street. Clean, great value and great hospitality – especially if Anon’s kuatoy brother is in town to glam things up! There are cheaper places to stay for sure – but with accommodation so cheap anyway why not, even as a budget traveller, enjoy a few luxuries – you don’t want to be sharing toilets after a spicy beef salad!

Rim-Pai Cottage

99/1 Moo 3 Viangtai, Pai, Maehongson 58130.

www.rimpaicottage.com

Tel: (66) 053 699 133

Price (per night): 1,200-2,000 Baht (low season) / 2,200-4,000 Baht (high season – includes breakfast)

Buzz: The perfect oasis in the centre of town on the banks of Pai river with 24 traditional and individually styled villas (some in the Thai Lanna period) this place is subtly luxurious. The villas have individual balconies some looking over the gardens and some over Pai River. Rim-Pai Cottage also boasts its own spa.

Pai Island

333 Moo, Tambon Viangtai, Amphoe Pai, Maehongson 58130.

www.paiisland.com

Tel: (66) 053 699 699

Price: 11,111-22,222 Baht (includes mini-bar with daily refill)

Buzz: An African resort style, you are collected either from the tiny airport or from town by beautiful tuk tuk’s. Each of the 10 luxury villas has its own private garden and terrace with loungers overlooking the river, that is candlelit at night. The highlight of this resort are the sunken extra-large outdoor bathtubs – making it perfect for a romantic escape! In the resort there is a central fireplace you can request to be lit to take the chill out of the air whilst you sup cocktails.

EAT

Dining in Pai is a simply scrumptious affair with a plethora of cafes and restaurants in and around town. No need to put your heels on, Pai is a bohemian sort of a town – though if you fancy a bit of drag, go ahead and sparkle the town rainbow! Most guest houses serve food also but here are the must try eateries.

Witching Well

97 Moo 3, Pai.

www.witchingwellpai.com

Tel: 08-2451-5930 (Anon) / 08-2451-5625 (Mark)

Price: Dishes start from 40 Baht

“Magickal Meals (many veggie) & Wicked Desserts” says the menu. Anon, the owner/chef serves freshly made snacks, meals, soups, salads and delicious desserts (the Lime Cheesecake is to die for!). No need to ever worry about the quality and taste of the cuisine here since Anon was head chef of Lucy’s restaurant in Stanley, Hong Kong and he brings a simple and flavoursome flair to the menu.

Na’s Kitchen

Ratchadamron Road, Pai.

Tel: 08-1387-0234

Traditional Thai cuisine cooked and prepared by Na herself who keeps an eye of all diners especially at the best tables at the street-side. You can ask for the spice level you wish and any particular requests are taken in to account. I had the whole steamed fish in lemon – perfectly cooked, tangy and hard to share! All the regular Thai fare is on the menu but Na’s is by far the best on offer in town.

Prices: Dishes start from 30 Baht

SEE

There’s lots to do in Pai. You can choose the spiritual route from yoga (Mam Yoga House 08-9954-4981) to reiki, and meditation (at Tam Wua Forest Monastery, a Vipassana Mediation Center in the mountains of Mae Hongson) to tarot card readings – just ask at the Witching Well and they’ll let you know what’s going on during you stay and recommend the right instructors/practitioners for you.

There’s the relaxation route with many traditional Thai massage parlors to choose from or, even better you can go to Spa Exotic (www.spaexotic.com) which has a spa pool into which natural hot spring water is pumped from the local Tha Pai Hot Springs. You can go directly to the natural hot springs themselves, but Spa Exotic give you a depth of pool to get your shoulders under (fantastic in the early evening as the temperature drops).

Fancy some adventure? Go rafting on Pai river, trekking, zip lining or horse and elephant riding – Back-Trax (08-5369-9730) is one of the most established agencies and can organise any of these for you. For the more dedicated and energetic you can learn and train for Muay Thai Boxing at True Bee Gym (www.truebee.com).

Heritage wise there are a few temples including Wat Phra That Mae Yen that offers great views over the valley. You can go and stay at the Lisu Hill Tribe Homestay and learn about this semi-nomadic indigenous people who originated from the far north of China and Tibet. To get back to nature you can also visit the Nam Tok Mo Paeng Waterfall situated near the Lisu village.

Pai is the perfect escape from the city and you soon learn to slow down your pace of life in a rural setting to nourish your mind, body and soul with the benefit of great food, lots to do and great accommodation. So why not treat yourself to a slice of Pai.

NIGHTLIFE

Pai has numerous bars that in high season are buzzing with merriment but you can also enjoy a more chilled evening away from the crowds if it’s peace that you want. Have cocktails by the riverside with a romantic date or follow the crowd and take advice from the many Thai’s handing out flyers. There’s a reggae bar, a jazz bar, live music venues and music festivals (www.paifestival.com). To find any of the places mentioned below just ask around town – everyone knows where everything is in this little town and they are mostly all accessible by foot.

Charnon’s Bar and C Bar are the well known gay (and hetero-friendly) bars in Pai, both operated by Charnon (Tel: 08-8990-2684) – Charnon’s Bar opens erratically for a few hours in the evening from 10pm until midnight and C Bar opens from 6pm until midnight. All venues in town, much following the bohemian vibe of Pai, are welcoming to everyone, whichever way you sway, so feel completely safe to party as you always do.

Live music is in abundance, BeBop has a good set up with a stage and many-leveled seating to enjoy the nightly music covering rock, jazz, blues and much more. Edible Jazz is a rustic affair with outdoor seating with a small stage set-up for musicians to jam a little and local cool-cats to show their stuff. For Reggae lovers, but not solely so, head for one of the larger venues – Ting Tong (the Thai word for ‘crazy’) pretty much says it all but mainly gets the crowds in the high season.