Word: Michael J. Morril

When I first stepped off the plane in 2001, and moved into my hole-in-the-wall shoebox of an apartment in the western part of Seoul, little did I know that this vibrant city would change my life forever! Living in Seoul was trying at times, but once I really got a feel for it, the culture, the food, the nightlife and of course…the boys, had a way of tantalizing my taste buds for East Asia, unmatched by any other place in the region!

WHERE TO STAY

Seoul boasts all of the big-name hotel chains, and if this is your thing, feel free to check any number of websites that offer deals on these hotels. If you want to be right in the centre of Seoul’s biggest gay community, Itaewon, try the Grand Hyatt or Hamilton Hotel. Rooms are small and a bit pricey for what you get, but the convenience of staying there makes up for it. A more convenient and cheaper option, with free amenities such as wireless internet is the Hotel D’Oro just 5 minutes walk from “Homo Hill”. Spend the same price on a suite here with whirlpool bath, as you would for a musty and drab standard room at the Hamilton (call +82 2 749 6525 for reservations and inquiries). A set of 4 adjacent buildings in Yeongdeungpo, just south of Yeouido, or the so-called “Manhattan of Seoul”, is home to yet another cheap and convenient, but boutique-hotel-grade hotel called LIFE (www.lifestylehotel.co.kr/english/default_01.asp ). All of the rooms boast superb décor, and some of their “party suites” offer the space to bring the party back to your hotel with built-in stereo system, Jacuzzis, king size beds, and lofts. This hotel is conveniently located near the new Time Square shopping centre.

A SEOUL-FUL COUPLE OF DAYS

By day…

First stop: Karosu-gil, Sinsa Station (line 3, orange) exit 8

Walk straight up the main road out of Sinsa Station 2 blocks to a street on your left with green, cushy sidewalks. Hang a left here, and welcome to people-watching paradise! Home to some of Seoul’s finest cafes and restaurants, have a seat at School Food, and try their ‘jangachi bulgogi kim bap’ or any of their other modern takes on traditional Korean food. Strolling down the street, you will come across Byul Café which serves organic fair-trade coffee, albeit at an insanely-overpriced rate, but even better is the small café-meets-flower-shop, Bloom et Gouté. Have a seat at one of their four outside tables and you have front row seats for a show of some of Asia’s finest men.

Walk in either direction from here and you will find independent designer boutiques for both men and women. Also within walking distance, but more easily accessible by taxi is Rodeo Street in Apkujung. Get off at Cine City Movie Theatre, walk straight down the alley to Rock n’ Roll pub, straight to Hollywood clothing store, turn left and look for a big red profile of Van Gogh, and you’ve arrived at one of Seoul’s finest men’s fashion stores, General Idea. This is the true mother of Seoul men’s fashion. Check www.generalidea.co.kr for more information, or call 010-5437-5646 for details on how to get there.

Second Stop: Samcheong Dong, Anguk Stn. (line 3, orange) exit 1 towards Insadong

Welcome to the cultural mecca of Seoul, Insadong., abundant in traditional arts and crafts stores, tea houses and touristy, yet traditional restaurants. Walk straight to Sudo Pharmacy, turn left, and turn left again at the entrance to Kyungjin Museum of Fine Art, and stop at Gaesung Dumpling House to enjoy a hot pot of dumpling rice cake soup (‘joraengi dduck mandoo gook’) before crossing the alley to the museum and tea house. Hot cinnamon tea (‘gaepi cha’) is just one of the many herbal teas you may choose from to warm you up, while listening to traditional Korean gayageum or trro-tuh music, in a traditional Korean house (‘han-ok’) which is also home to a great collection of fine art.

Head back to the main street and take a cab to Samcheong Gak. Walk around the traditional houses that were once used for top-secret high-level talks with North Korean officials. Have a seat on the veranda overlooking the city and enjoy some traditional Korean snacks and tea. They also have cultural performances in the afternoons. More information is available at www.samcheonggak.or.kr/e_main.asp.

On your way back, take the free shuttle bus to Samcheong Dong from the parking lot, and get off at the East entrance to Gyeongbok Palace. This street is speckled with art galleries, cafes and traditional Korean restaurants serving Hanjeong Shik, Kimchi Mari Gook Su, and Bi Bim Bap.

By night…

First stop: Itaewon, (Itaewon Stn., line 6, brown line) any exit.

The alley behind Hamilton Hotel is most easily accessed by turning right at KFC. On the corner of this alley is Buddha’s Belly, serving some of Korea’s best Thai cuisine. On the ground floor is Saigon Grill, and in the basement is B1 bar and lounge. B1 has live DJs and caters to a mixed crowd. Turn left and walk all the way down to the end of the alley to get to Urban, owned and operated by one of Korea’s queen mum’s of the gay scene, a good old friend named Phil. Tell him you’re Michael’s friend from Hong Kong and he will take good care of you and give you all the information you need. Walk down to where you started, and you will find Above, in the same building as Hamilton Hotel. They offer a fusion of east meets west cuisine, have a great drink list and live DJ. The owner, Sean, has some really hot friends, so make sure you stop by here any night of the week. Just down the street on the ground floor is Balsize Park, yet another fine eatery with a great wine list ask the owner, Richard, any questions about Seoul’s gay scene.

Walk to the end of the alley behind Hamilton Hotel, cross the street, and walk up the hill. Turn left at the first alley, “Hooker Hill” and you will find the sole gay bar on the hill, Almaz, that offers a tranquil atmosphere, with small Japanese garden in the back. Go back to the main street and walk up to the next alley, turn left just past King Club, and you’re at “Homo Hill”, home to Queen Bar, Always Homme, Soho, Eat Me, Why Not, and the new club Edge. While your chances of meeting many people during the week here are slim, the weekends are busy with masses of men partying inside and out til’ the wee hours of the morning. Around 1 or 2 AM, many of these boys head to Pulse, a big gay club back on the main strip in Itaewon.

Second Stop: Chongno 3-ga (line 3, orange) exit 7

If Karaoke is your thing, and you want to go on an adventure, head over to Chongno 3-ga Stn., and the area behind Tapgol Park, home to Korea’s first gay district. Walk straight for two blocks, cross the main street and walk into the alley directly in front of you. On the right hand side is Wallpaper, Korea’s hottest all-Asian Karaoke Bar. Get here early if you want a table. Also in this area are Munhwa Sauna, and 50-60 other Karaoke bars.

Feeling randy? Right in Itaewon, on the corner across the alley from the fire station on the 3rd floor is Equus Sauna. If the crowd is too mixed for your taste, head to Nonhyun Station (line 2, green, exit 4) to Watermill Sauna (http://www.watermill.co.kr/). Walk straight out of exit 4 to the SK shop, and go up to the 3rd floor. Watermill is known for the high volume of hot Korean muscle studs, and is a must see.

So there you have it, Seoul in a nutshell. If any of these places are too hard to find, just find a Korean friend to show you around or lead you in the right direction. Seoul is a great place to visit any time of the year, and the boys are always willing to help out a traveller in need…just tell him he’s ‘jalsaeng kyuta’ and he’ll do anything for you!