Word: Neil Bowen

When Hong Kong launched high definition TV last year I spent a night watching the new HD channel. The screen was showing a charming little town in China. I was glued to the program till the very end and told myself I had to visit this town as soon as possible. I packed my suitcase and jumped onto a plane last month for a few hours journey that landed me in the ancient and picturesque town of Lijian.

Lijiang in Yunnan province, China is a great place to go for a long weekend. Located in the northwest of Yunnan Province on the southern border of China, Lijiang is renowned for its natural beauty and historical sites.

At an altitude of over 2400m, Lijiang enjoys a mild climate with a distinct dry and wet season. You can go through four seasons in one day. The rainy season is from May to October so you may wish to avoid this time.

The city is the home to the Naxi ethnic group who know how to treasure this land of gold ………

GETTING THERE
Getting there is a little tedious as you have to change in Kunming for a short connecting flight. Flying to Kunming from Hong Kong takes around 2 hours with Hong Kong Express or Dragon Air. Then you will need to get a connecting flight to Lijiang (35 minutes) with China Southern.

SLEEP
Banyan Tree
Yuerong Road, Old Town, Lijiang 674100, China
www.banyantree.com/en/lijiang
Buzz: For those in search of a little luxury, the Banyan Tree is a stunning hotel in a beautiful setting. The service is international standard with helpful staff that speak English to help you find your way around. The hotel includes two restaurants. The Chinese restaurant, Ming Yue, serves Cantonese cuisine. Try the pan-fried dumplings – Divine!

Crowne Plaza
No.276 Xianghe Road, Old Town District, Lijiang, Yunnan, China, 674100
www.ichotelsgroup.com/h/d/cp/1/en/hotel/ljgac
Buzz: This popular 5 star hotel which just opened last year. Walking distance from Lijiang Ancient Town. The rooms are spacious and the décor mixed with modern and Chinese contemporary style.

The Tea Boutique Hotel
No.101 Chongren Alley, Qiyi Street, Dayan Old Town, Lijiang 674100, China
http://thetea.blogbus.com
Buzz: For the budget travelers Lijiang Old Town has plenty of guesthouses. The Tea Boutique Hotel also located in Lijiang Old Town has nice clean rooms with big windows. Owners Kevin and Maggie will make sure you enjoy every second of your stay.

EAT
Be sure to try some of the local Naxi cuisine from street vendors in the Old Town if you are brave enough, particularly the Baba bread (thick flatbreads of wheat, served plain or stuffed with meat, vegetables or sweet ingredients) which are delicious.

Sichuan province is the neighboring province to the north, so there are many hot pot restaurants, but be warned, they are extremely spicy! The menus are not in English but if you have enough patience (or a helpful friend!) you may be able to experience a wonderful (and cheap) meal. If you can read Chinese, of course you wont have a problem. We ate at Qin Ma Hot Pot which is one of the Top 10 hot pot restaurants in China, and it was a fantastic experience. Other popular restaurants include Sakura Café and Mama Fu’s in the Old Town.

SEE
The ancient city of Lijiang is a UNESCO world heritage site and is known as the best-preserved ancient town in China. With a history going back 800 years, the architecture in Lijiang is largely unchanged in the classical Chinese style. Beautiful willow trees line the main streets and hundreds of tiny rivers and streams flow through the town creating a magical setting.

It is a photographer’s paradise and it is great fun getting lost wandering the narrow cobblestone alleyways, taking in the sights. Make sure you visit Mu’s Palace (formerly the home of the Naxi rulers in ancient times) and Wangulou Tower up on the hill for a great view of the Old Town. The nearby Black Dragon Pool, which is the water source of the Old Town, is a serene and tranquil park and just perfect for a short stroll and a great place for scenic photos.

At night, the Old Town takes on a whole different vibe with beautiful lanterns lighting up the street facades. You may even see ethnic dancing in the main square which is fascinating to watch.

At times however, the Old Town does come across a little touristy and commercial and personally I enjoyed visiting the nearby ancient towns of Shuhe (around 15 minutes by car from the Old Town) and Bai Sha (30 minutes), which are equally as beautiful, but quieter and you get to experience a living, working town, giving you a glimpse of what life was like hundreds of years ago.

While in Bai Sha, be sure to stop off at Dabaoji Palace to see the ancient frescoes if you are interested in the local history.

A great way to see the area is to hire a bike and explore the beautiful countryside and nearby attractions. The roads are very quiet, so it is a safe and relaxing way to spend the day.
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is around 20 kilometres to the north of Lijiang is worth a visit for the breathtaking scenery. Nearby is the Jade Water Villa and Yufeng temple which are fascinating sites where you can learn about the Naxi culture and enjoy the beautiful scenery.

Not far from Lijiang is Lashi Lake where you can experience local hospitality of the Naxi people. Horse riding along the lake shore is a pleasant way to spend a few hours and you don’t need any previous experience! For nature enthusiasts, the lake is home to dozens of species of migratory birds.

The region around Lijiang is a hiker’s paradise and if you have enough time it is highly recommended you make the short trip to view the spectacular scenery at Tiger Leaping Gorge which is only a few hours by road. Flowing through the gorge is the Jinsha River (Golden Sand River), which is an upper tributary of the Yangtze River.

Some hikers will take the time to go on a two days hike of the whole gorge, stopping at guesthouses along the route. We only had time for a short two hours walk, but it was set against a stunning backdrop of one of the deepest canyons in the world. Top tip: if you get up early, you can beat the crowds at the viewing area. We arrived at 10am and it was very quiet, but the hordes of crowds were not far behind us as we discovered on our way back!

Not much further from Lijiang is Shangri-la (4 hours by road from Lijiang). Unfortunately we didn’t have the time to visit on this trip, but if you are going for long enough, be sure to spend a few days as it is renowned for its natural beauty.

NIGHTLIFE
Although Lijiang’s night action is somewhat limited compared to other Chinese cities, and finishes very early compared to Hong Kong, the town makes the most of what it has got and most nightlife is aimed at foreign visitors.

Xinhua Street, which runs along the water in the Old Town, is famous for its bars. Among the popular watering holes here are Mama Fu’s Bar, Sangji Langmu Tibetan Bar, Naxi Pavilion Bar and Jing Zhuo Bar. Enjoy!